Wanderer

Garam masala ingredients, Karachi

2012-02-12T19:05:00.001+05:00

Garam masala ingredients, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Garam masala consists of the following: (From R to L): Green cardamom (choti ilaichi), black cardamom (bari ilaichi), white cumin (safed zeera), cloves (long), star anise (badiyan key phool), black cumin (kala zeera), mace (javatri), black pepper corns (kali mirch) and cinnamon sticks (dar chini / dajh). The only ingredient missing is whole nutmeg. Indian version of Garam Masala (In English: All spice powder) there is an addition of Malabar leaves. In Pakistan, they are generally not found or used in the recipe. All these are mixed in a pan, roasted for 12 minutes, and then grounded to make a fine powder.

A bunch of bananas minus two, Karachi

2012-02-12T07:36:00.001+05:00

A bunch of bananas minus two, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Bananas and plantains constitute a major staple food crop for millions of people in developing countries. In most tropical countries, green (unripe) bananas used for cooking represent the main cultivars. Bananas are cooked in ways that are similar to potatoes. Both can be fried, boiled, baked, or chipped and have similar taste and texture when served. One banana provides about the same calories as one potato.

Bananas are eaten deep fried, baked in their skin in a split bamboo, or steamed in glutinous rice wrapped in a banana leaf. Bananas can be made into jam. Banana pancakes are popular amongst backpackers and other travelers in South Asia and Southeast Asia.

Bananas are an excellent source of vitamin B6 and contain moderate amounts of vitamin C, manganese and potassium.

Along with other fruits and vegetables, consumption of bananas may be associated with a reduced risk of colorectal cancerand in women, breast cancer and renal cell carcinoma.

Main centers of banana production in Pakistan are Hyderabad, Tando Allah Yar & Tando Adam in Sindh province.

Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Banana

Dinner: Pita bread with chicken and peri peri sauce

2012-02-08T23:16:00.001+05:00

Dinner: Pita bread with chicken and peri peri sauce
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
This dish can only be cooked by my mother. The balance in taste has to match with peri peri sauce ingredients.

Dinner: Khausa with full ingredients, Karachi

2012-02-06T22:44:00.001+05:00

Dinner: Khausa with full ingredients, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Khausa was brought to Pakistan by Jethpur Memons from Burma. They learnt this dish while doing business in Burma and after partition brought it here. Khausa or Khausay, as the dish is known, is usually cooked for dinner but may also be consumed for lunch. It is arguably the best Memoni dish on offer and I have never heard any non-Memon becoming an expert cook of this. It's cooking requires lot of hard work, patience and intricate understanding of the masala and timing for spaghetti boiling. Garlic must always be fried and must come out crisp. Lal mirch must be fresh and so should be coriander leaves as well as chips. If chaat masala is missing or lacking in taste, it will half-destroy the entire taste of the dish. Meat must be cooked in small pieces and eaten as such.

Cooked by my good mother as a gift for all of us.

Breakfast: French toast with cream, honey and chai, Karachi

2012-02-05T23:42:00.001+05:00

Breakfast: French toast with cream, honey and chai, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
French toast cooked by my wife.

Lunch: Dhokray with khopra & hara dhanya chutney, Karachi

2012-02-05T15:30:00.001+05:00

Lunch: Dhokray with khopra & hara dhanya chutney, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Dhokray or Dhokday is a typical South Asian dish prepared using bajray ka ata, kala and safed chunay (black and white chickpeas), bengan (brinjal), hara dhanya (corriander leaves), piyaz (onions), aloo (potatoes), namak (salt), mutter (peas), methi ki bhaji and cooked with oil. It may also have a fish or a meat piece added separately to provide a complete taste. Other winter vegetables may also be added according to the taste of the cook or chef.

Green chutney is made using khopra (coconut), hara dhanya (corriander leaves), lehsun (garlic), namak (salt) and hari mirch (green chillies).

This dish and chutney were sent in by our good neighbour who wishes to remain anonymous. This was sent today on the occassion of Birthday of Prophet of ALLAH, Hazrat Muhammad (salau alihi wasalam).

Lunch: Zarda chawal for Prophet Hazrat Muhammad's (sallahu alihiwasalam) Birthday, Karachi

2012-02-04T23:22:00.002+05:00

Lunch: Zarda chawal for Prophet Hazrat Muhammad's (sallahu alihi wasalam) Birthday, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
My wife today cooked zarda chawal on the eve of Birthday anniversary of Prophet of ALLAH, Hazrat Muhammad (sallahu alihi wasalam). Traditionally Muslims the world over have cooked various sweet dishes to commemorate the Birthday (12th Rabi-ul-Awal Sharif, the 3rd Month of Islamic Lunar calender). We still cook and we ensure that the dish is sweet and tasty. Almonds and pistachio were minutely cut way before the dish was cooked. Food colour was also added to give it a brilliant yellow colour.

Dinner: Burns Road ka Bun Kebab, Karachi

2012-02-03T22:55:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Burns Road ka Bun Kebab, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Burns Road, is a street in old downtown Karachi, Sindh, Pakistan. Because of different vowels in the Urdu language, it is generally referred to as "Buns Road" by locals. It was named after Dr. James Burnes, a physician who treated the Amirs of Sindh in 1820s.

Burns Road is famous for its traditional food offerings such as Biryani and Karahi, Dhaga Kabab, Fry Kabab, Nihari, Haleem and fried finger fish. More specialties including Kheer, Rabri, Ras Malai, Ras Gulay, Lassi and Dahi Bara. There are a couple of Halwa Puri stalls too which serve Halwa Puri for breakfast.

The famous Lassi shops have been around since post partition period and also serve Milk with dry fruits. They also have Mango Shake (Aam Ki Botal) and Mango ice-cream during Mango season and Gajar Carrot Ka Halwa in winter. They usually open 6 or 7am and stay open till 2am midnight and later on weekends.

Burns Road also boasts of two well known sweets shops, Fresco and Bhashanis; that is a great boon for Desi sweets lovers.

Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burns_Road

Dinner: Safed Paplet (White Pomfret), Karachi

2012-02-02T22:56:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Safed Paplet (White Pomfret), Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Fried with green masala, a local recipe of my mother in a pan with oil. Eaten raw or with roti and piyaz (onions).

Pomfret is known as paplet is perhaps the most popular fish eaten among the Gujrati familes of Pakistan and India, perhaps due the fact that Gujratis have been eating this fish since last few centuries. Best season for fishing pomfret in Arabian Sea is between Sep-Jan, December being the best month. We got this fish for Rs.900/ Kg, which makes it one of the most expensive eatable fish in Pakistan. And this was rather small. Large size was Rs.1,200 / Kg. We call it 'Paplet', a lovely name.

Dinner: Chicken corn soup, Karachi

2012-02-01T23:03:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Chicken corn soup, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Chicken corn soup flanked by (R to L): White vinegar with green chilies, red chilli sauce and soya sauce. Cooked by my wife.

Sweets for Prophet's Birthday: Baklava, Karachi

2012-02-01T23:02:00.002+05:00

Sweets for Prophet's Birthday: Baklava, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Gifted to my father today by Pak Fan company, Pakistan, for the upcoming Birthday of our Beloved Prophet Hazrat Muhammad-e-Mustafa (salahu alihi wasalam), which will appear this Sunday (5th Feb, 2012). According to Sunni Muslims, Birthday of Prophet is 12th Rabi-ul-Awal Sharif, which is the 3rd month of Islamic lunar calender.

In Pakistan and across the world where Muslims reside Birthday is celebrated with recitation of Naats (hyms in praise of Prophet) and Quran Sharif (Holy Book of Islam and Word of ALLAH).

Dinner: Chargah, Karachi

2012-02-01T22:31:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Chargah, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Full chicken cooked with BBQ sauce. Cooked by my wife for dinner.

Madani mirch or talhi hui mirch, Karachi

2012-01-31T20:17:00.005+05:00

Madani mirch or talhi hui mirch, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Green chillies are slit open and then zeera and salt are placed inside each of them. Cooked in oil until fried. But never deep fried and never use red chillies. These are Pakistani chillies.

Cooked by my wife.

Lunch: Masoor ki daal with piyaz and mirch, Karachi

2012-01-31T20:17:00.004+05:00

Lunch: Masoor ki daal with piyaz and mirch, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Massor ki daal, usually cooked for lunch but may also be eaten as a dinner. Mostly eaten in our house with hari mirch (also called Madani mirch or talhi hui mirch) and piyaz (onions) & tamator (cut tomatoes). Sprinkling of chaat masala completes the taste. Must be eaten with either chawal (cooked rice but not boiled) or tandoor ki roti (unleavened bread cooked by Pathans or Afghans in a huge, underground tandoor).

Cooked by my wife.

Lunch: Chicken shashlek, Karachi

2012-01-29T15:36:00.002+05:00

Lunch: Chicken shashlek, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Chicken pieces cut by my good mother. Cooked by my wife and sisters. A wonderful dish except that it is traditionally cooked using wooden sticks. Due to lack of time, it was cooked directly on 'tawwa'.

Dinner: Spicy Spaghetti, Karachi

2012-01-24T22:19:00.005+05:00

Dinner: Spicy Spaghetti, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Cooked by my wife.

Dinner: Sabzi pulao with lal chutney, Karachi

2012-01-24T22:19:00.004+05:00

Dinner: Sabzi pulao with lal chutney, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Cooked by my wife.

Dinner: Zinger burger with kolslaw, Karachi

2012-01-18T22:04:00.003+05:00

Dinner: Zinger burger with kolslaw, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Zinger chicken cooked by my sister, Rida whereas kolslaw was done by Sana for today's dinner. Chicken is a favourite of our house members and everyone just enjoys chicken dish. French fries were crisp and tasty alongwith Knorr Chilli Sauce. I think this recipe was perfected by my mother.

Dinner: Home made pizza with russian salad

2012-01-15T21:47:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Home made pizza with russian salad
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Pakistanis have so much altered this Italian dish that Italian national would find it hard to recognize the ingredients except for the erstwhile cheese. Like all great cooks of the world we tend to improvise according to the tastes and sensibilities of our nation. Therefore, unknown to Italians, Pakistani pizzas have such ingredients as chicken tikka or massala tikka - loads of it - daubed with chadder and mozrilla cheese, shimla mirch (green chilli), a wonderful pizza paste and a very thick bread. Cut tomatoes and onions are the staples. My sister also added russian salad for the added taste. No Pepsi, though!

Breakfast: Gur Papri with chai, Karachi

2012-01-13T23:26:00.002+05:00

Breakfast: Gur Papri with chai, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Gur Papri is a purely Memon / Gujrati dish cooked during winters by women of these ethnic groups. This dish may be eaten at anytime but is recommended for breakfast and dinner. It consists of gur (jaggery), gondhar cooked with desi ghee and mixed with cut almonds, Chilgoza (pine nuts), akhrot (walnut), pista (pistachios) & kishmesh (raisins). My mother, it must be emphasized, is the best cook of this traditional dish.

Dinner: Hulwa puri & Aloo ka salan

2012-01-11T22:29:00.004+05:00

Dinner: Hulwa puri & Aloo ka salan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Aloo is potato in Urdu. Hulwa is sweet dish eaten on many occasions and even without any special occasion. Puri was really good today.

Lunch: Chicken karahi, Pakistan

2012-01-11T22:29:00.001+05:00

Lunch: Chicken karahi, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Cooked by my sister for Sunday lunch. Chicken Karahi is eaten with homemade achar, khopray ki chutney (light green), lemon sprinkled and freshly cut garlic and onions. I also added salsa for the added flavour.

Lunch: Chicken karahi, Pakistan

2012-01-11T22:27:00.002+05:00

Lunch: Chicken karahi, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Wetlands of Pakistan: Haleji lake, Sindh

2012-01-07T16:42:00.002+05:00

Wetlands of Pakistan: Haleji lake, Sindh
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Haleji Lake (Urdu: ہالیجی جھیل) is located in Thatta District, Sindh, Pakistan. It is the Asia's largest bird sanctuary.

Originally, Haleji Lake was small. During World War II the then-British Government of Sindh decided to increase the capacity of the lake by introducing a feeder canal from the River Sindh. The work was placed on a war footing and was completed within 24 months. During the war, thousands of American and British troops were stationed in Karachi; the water supply was provided by Haleji Lake.

Source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haleji_Lake

Gorhi temple and village, Sindh

2012-01-07T16:40:00.004+05:00

Gorhi temple and village, Sindh
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Tomb of Makhdoom, Hala, Sindh

2012-01-07T16:40:00.003+05:00

Tomb of Makhdoom, Hala, Sindh
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Lunch: Urach (maach) daal with achar and bajray ki roti, Karachi

2012-01-07T16:37:00.002+05:00

Lunch: Urach (maach) daal with achar and bajray ki roti, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Urach or maach ki daal is a purely Memoni / Gujrati dish and therefore, alien to a majority of Karachi's population. This dish actually has lot of other ingredients like fried onions, green chillies deep pan fried with slit in the center; fish pieces and some salads, as per requirement. This is a specifically lunch dish and is rarely eaten for dinner.

Dinner: Chicken handi with tandoor

2012-01-04T22:11:00.002+05:00

Dinner: Chicken handi with tandoor
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
This dish is called Chicken handi because its cooked in a 'handi' (pronounced as handee in Urdu). Handi or Handee refers to a backed clay pot and is a common feature across Pakistani kitchens. Even 5-star hotels use them for certain dishes to give an additional, earthly flavour. Tandoori naan or simply tandoor is a bread baked on earthern or metal underground pits designed specifically for this purpose. You will find 'tandoors' across Pakistan and many parts of India and Bangladesh and everywhere where there are Pakistani cooks. Onions, lemon and freshly cut garlic complete the taste and the aroma. My great mother must be given credit for this.

Walnuts with bananas

2012-01-04T09:00:00.001+05:00

Walnuts with bananas
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Walnuts with bananas

2012-01-04T08:58:00.002+05:00

Walnuts with bananas
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Today breakfast with walnuts, bananas taken with a cup of chai and cheese sandwich.

Cooking chawal, old Hyderabad, Pakistan

2011-12-22T13:53:00.002+05:00

Cooking chawal, old Hyderabad, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Biryani is perhaps the single most popular dish in Sindh and Punjab provinces. Off course, the dish was popularized by people living in Delhi and Lucknow and who then immigrated to Pakistan on the eve of partition of British India in 1947. This man was checking for the right quality of rice, known as basmatti, for using in the cooking of a sumptuous biryani. They say that the best biryani is that of mutton. In fact, there used to certain cooks who refused to cook biryani using chicken!

Please also note one more thing here: Hindu Brahmins of past never ate or even touched meat or eggs. So it is highly unlikely that this man, if he had been here before 1947, would be cooking biryani or any other meat related dish. It is to these Urdu-speaking Mohajirs of India (Urdu speaking is a wide ranging term employed in Pakistan to encompass everyone from Delhi walla to Lucknow walla but not Gujratis) that the popularity of Biryani may be traced. Even today, after 60 years of partition, no other ethnic group can cook a better biryani than Hyderabadis or Delhi wallas. Some say Memons (from Gujarat province of India) also cook good biryani. Sindhis, the traditional inhabitants of this province - hence the name Sindh - are also not good cooks of this culinary delight.

[Now, Biryani is part of Pakistani culture along with Karhai ghosht. I mention this man and his deghs here because his business is now essential part of living in Heerabad area of Hyderabad, Pakistan.]

Hindu heritage of Hyderabad, Pakistan

2011-12-21T00:05:00.002+05:00

Hindu heritage of Hyderabad, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Pessumal Pritamdas Zamindar

Construction date: 1934.

Hindu heritage of Hyderabad, Pakistan

2011-12-20T23:46:00.001+05:00

Hindu heritage of Hyderabad, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Real name: Unknown.
Now named: Kashan-e-Amjad, Heerabad, Hyderbad, Sindh province, Pakistan.

Hindu banyas, as the Brahmin caste is known in Urdu and Hindi, knew little while constructing such beautiful entrances that their time in up-coming Pakistan was running short. In 1947, British litrally ran away from British India, dividing the country into Hindu India and Muslim Pakistan, jumbling up the borders to their own likes and dislikes, putting to sword the lives of millions. Many died in Punjab bloodbath and Pakistan's founder, Mr. Jinnah, wondered whether he done it right by creating a homeland for Muslims of India? He, like millions across the border, were dumbstruck by the results. The results were understood long before blood letting was allowed by the British but to no avail. Rapes, looting and murder were the order of the day. The peaceful Muslims in newly created India were either killed or forced to relocate. Same thing happened to Hindus, people who'd lived here since last 4,000 years or so. But they were to move enmasse. Even personal appeal from Mr. Jinnah was unable to stop Hindus of Sindh from vanishing overnight. But something good also happened here: As against thousands of killed daily in Punjab province hardly anyone was killed or maimed here in Sindh province. It remained largely peaceful except for some isolated incidents in Karachi and elsewhere. Even Parsis, followers of Zarathustra, felt insecure and left for greener pastures. Their places were eventually filled by Delhi wallas, Hyderabadis and Lucknawis, people who claimed big properties in India and who now got such beautiful havelis in return (see this and other photographs).

How sad is our history! But only if we knew.

Hindu heritage of Hyderabad, Pakistan

2011-12-20T23:31:00.001+05:00

I am suddenly reminded of a wonderful Hindu heritage present in our country. And some of that I have documented in Hyderabad and in Karachi. Sadly, we have lost much of it. What is left is slowly dying due mainly to the negligent behaviour of our government and ignorance of our general public. World over heritage is lovingly preserved and restored. Here in Pakistan we just tend to destroy everything to make way for the new. For being new is a sign of progress and of modernism. We feel connected to New York and London. But, the question is, can we get connected to these great modern cities by just blowing away our heritage sites? If the answer was yes, then Paris, London and Delhi would already had done away with their respective heritage. Instead, they preserved and today those very old buildings compel travellers from across the world to come and to see and to photograph. In this and other things, I am sad to say, we have miserably failed. We have even tried to forget the heritage of Pakistan focusing only on Islamic structures. In 2008, for example, Taliban blew some really beautiful and historically very important Buddhas in Swat valley. And there was no cry among the general Pakistanis. We did not raise our heads except for a few rare people. Why? Because we are generally unaware - and unconcerned - about our rare and important heritage.

It is in this background that I will be sharing some of my photographs of heritage, dying and dead. Keep watching this space.

2011-12-20T23:19:00.002+05:00

Fisherman, Mancher lake, Indus River, Sindh

2011-12-19T00:00:00.001+05:00

Indus River Saga
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

This is an old fisherman on the bank of a great, now poisoned, Mancher lake (or jheel, as is known in Urdu). It draws its waters from the great River Indus, the lifeline of Pakistan around which all our great civilizations have flourished - and drowned. You may name Indus Valley civilization (Moen jo Daro site, etc), Kalhoras, Talpurs of Sindh, Nawabs of lower Punjab, even Mughuls (on the bank of now-dead Ravi, part of Indus river system) and so on and so forth. It is claimed that the culture on both sides of River Indus are radically different. I have never been able to verify this claim but a good start on the history and present-day scenoria on this river would be to read Alice Albinia's 'Empires of the Indus', a beautifully written, first hand account of her journey from the mouth of Indus to its starting point in Tibet.

[Unfortunately, I have somehow managed to loose this beautiful photograph from my archive].

Islamabad Japanese Park, Pakistan (1990)

2011-12-16T09:41:00.001+05:00

Ameer Hamza on ropes, Islamabad Japanese Park (1990)
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

You can get some idea about our times in 1990 by the clothes I am wearing. There's nothing else to inform you about those good times. Time when our country was much more liberal, tolerant and understanding of each other. Now, bigotry, religious hatred and ethnic violence cloud our judgment and life. I look happy and most of Pakistan of those times was also very happy, indeed. It was prosperous and affordable for most Pakistanis. Now, sadly, many things are simply out of reach of around 80% Pakistanis.

This photograph is also important on a personal level. It brings back good memories of a time gone past. Like all personal photographs this too is a treasure.

Forest floor, Chota Yasin, Northern Pakistan

2011-12-14T23:25:00.001+05:00

Forest floor, Chota Yasin, Northern Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
I just wanted to share this photograph of a forest floor at Chota Yasin, a wonderful place where we camped for a memorable night and a memorable morning awaited us all. This photograph is also important in a sense that it was published by Express Tribune magazine in its Travel feature on 11th December, 2011. I hope wide angle has allowed me to capture enough of floor as well as the trees which contribute to its beauty.

Published: Express Tribune Mag Dec 11- Dec 17, 2011

2011-12-12T01:17:00.001+05:00

Published: Express Tribune Mag Dec 11- Dec 17, 2011
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

When men and mountain meet

By Ameer Hamza

They don’t even sound like they belong in Pakistan, these strange and exotic place names that are popping up in my inbox. Immit, Mithramdan, Wargoth glacier, Sokhtarabad, Chitti Boi. With some trepidation, I sign up for this latest travel expedition and agree to pay Rs10,000 in advance to the travel guide who e-mailed this odd-sounding itinerary to me. Feeling the need for a travel partner as I depart to these uncharted territories, I call my just-returned-from-the US friend, Adeel. He gamely agrees to tag along, though he does wonder out loud if good food will be available in these places.

A few days later, we find ourselves munching breakfast in Gilgit, having got here from Rawalpindi via the breathtaking Babussar pass. We’re waiting for the wagon that will take us on to Immit and, while we wait, I keep asking our tour guide, Tanweer babu, if it’s really such a good idea to travel to the Northern tip of Pakistan in the rainy month of September.
Scoffing at my fears, he paints a picture of chirping birds and multi-coloured flowers waving in the breeze … all under a cloudless sky. This is the North, I am reminded, and in any case, September is not the rainy season. Of course, at this time half of lower Sindh is submerged under floodwaters and Karachi is experiencing its heaviest rains in a decade.

I’m reassured, and we proceed on the rather bumpy road to Immit. On the way, we cross a flooded nullah, and a little voice in my head whispers, ‘Turn back…it’s not too late!’ But I pay no heed and then we’re there. Immit is the last outpost of civilisation on this side of the border, the last major town before you enter Afghanistan. This is where the road ends, literally. For us, this means that this is the last chance to buy whatever we may need before entering the wild.

Of course, our tour operator ‘forgets’ to purchase extra oil, wheat and rice and all we have is his vague assurance that we’re well-stocked for the 12-day trek that awaits us.

It’s dusk when we reach our Mithramdan, our first campsite, and there’s just enough sun for us to glimpse the jagged peaks of the mountains against the dying light. It’s freezing cold, and we sleep in a government-run school rather than camp out. Even Tanweer babu looks a little worried as he zips himself into his sleeping bag.

The next day is just as advertised: crystal clear air, beautiful mountains and a veritable aura of happiness. Awaiting us at the school gate is an army of locals, all vigorously bargaining with Tanweer babu. They know the next lot of visitors will only come in June and this is their last chance to make some tourist cash. Eventually one lucky local wins our custom and we head out at 9 am.

As we move on, the stark beauty becomes starker, the water becomes colder the gloves start to come out, and the grumblers (a necessary part of every trek) start grumbling a little louder. At 2 pm, after crossing many beautiful but potentially deadly paths, we reach Chota Yasin. This is the place I really wanted to visit and finally being here is like a dream come true. Ancient Sanober trees dot the landscape,and a single herdsman remains here with his family. the rest having left for warmer climes.
To me, it’s heaven on earth. Imagine a place surrounded by mountains, heavily forested with magnificent Sanober trees and dotted with streams of pure, clean water. Here, the formidable-looking Yak roams free along with the herdsman’s other animals and the conversation revolves around fodder, kids and more fodder. Life is good and all blood pressure patients should come here and stay for a while to sort things out.

The next day we reluctantly pack up and move towards the promised Wargoth glacier. Despite its dangerous sounding name, it is not as formidable a glacier as Baltoro or Hispar but is nevertheless treacherous enough. This is not a place to lose your footing, because falling into one of its numerous crevices won’t just be potentially fatal, but also deeply insulting to someone who considers himself a bonafide trekker. Luckily, no one falls. We soon reach the Wargoth campsite, light a bonfire, and celebrate our first glacier crossing with some warm, salty tea. But it seems the rain gods frown upon our victory as this is when the first (and very heavy) rains begin to fall. All eyes turn towards our sheepish tour operator, who had been insisting ever since we left that rains would not be a problem. We drag ourselves along on slick and slippery paths, cursing him under our breath but still in awe of the landscape.

Twelve soggy hours later, we finally reach Sokhtarabad. It is eerily dark and the rains have resumed after a short break. The sound is so thunderous that it is just impossible to think about anything except how to keep yourself warm and dry. Soon our tents start to leak and we are all wading in cold water, fending for ourselves as our tour operator inexplicably remains fast asleep in his tent, his snores somehow still audible through the sound of the rain.

The next morning, the rain is gone but the clouds remain, hovering around the jagged mountain peaks towards the northwest. I get my first glimpse of the Pakistan-Afghanistan border. As a traveler, I am constantly in awe of border regions. I don’t know why, but there’s something about political borders which compels me to visit them. However, I really don’t like visiting Mummy-Daddy-Burger-Baby borders like Wagah, which everyone can get to. I like these tough borders. Rugged places like the one I can see from the Sokhtarabad campsite. Places with names that give you an adrenaline rush.

The next day our tour operator gets sick (or is he fooling?) and we cancel our trek. I give a last, longing look to that now snow-capped peak from where you can hop across into Afghanistan, and return after photographing local yak walking across the landscape. Although we ultimately failed to reach Karomber lake we did manage to see what few Pakistanis ever will in their lifetimes. Leaving the border areas I recalled that remarkable verse by

William Blake,
‘Great things are done when men and mountain meet
This is not done by jostling in the street’

A few days later, Adeel and I are back jostling away in Karachi’s streets, wondering when we will meet the mountains again.

Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, December 11th, 2011.

The Last Meal of my Grandfather

2011-12-11T01:45:00.001+05:00

The Last Meal: My Grandfather
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Yes, you read it right. It was my grandfather's last meal. After this soup he was taken to the Jamal Noor hospital for checkup. When his condition worsened he was taken to Patel hospital. He passed away on 10th December, 2011, just before 3 PM (P.S.T). His namaz-e-Janaza was held at Memon masjid, Pahari walli, Shaheed-e-Millad road, Karachi, at 8 PM. He was finally burried at Mehwashah graveyard.

When I was shooting this photograph my grandfather (dada in Urdu) asked me why I wanted to shoot more when I had already shot 4. I, off course, did not have any immediate answer so I kept my camera and had last lunch with him. Little did I know that it would be the final time any of us present there would be having our last meal with him. He was 85 or 86 years old, was born at Bahwanagar, Gujarat province, pre-partition India (British Raj). He, along with his family, immigrated to newly born state of Pakistan in 1948 (Pakistan came into being in August, 1947, ostensibly as an Islamic state). In India he had run a chai dhaba with his elder brother, Ahmad bhai. In Pakistan, he had an edible oil shop at Jodia Bazaar, Karachi. He also had Noor Electric Co., which he had begun with his brother in 1973-74. It was later split in 1984 when Ahmad bhai decided to leave. (Ahmad bhai was my nana and he had begun Bombay Light House).

Haji Moosa Adhia was his full name. He was expert in Indian herbal medicine, what is generally called 'Hikmah' and is practiced by hakims across India and Pakistan. He wasn't educated in this field but through his immense interest he knew almost all the local herbs by their traditional names and knew what uses each had. This allowed him to treat everyone for free, whoever came for his advice. I never saw him charge a fee for his expertise. Many women came from afar for treatment of their knees, a common ailment nowadays among many women. For men, there could be anything from stress to heart disease. He almost always recommended use of honey ('shehed' or 'madh' in Urdu) in one or the other form for many of the diseases. His breakfast almost always had honey as an important component in it. It is to his enduring legacy that I also adore honey and try it with various meals. Another favourite of him were the dry fruits - almonds, cashew, walnuts, dried figs, pistachio, and others. Every winter we would receive some of these from his as his gifts. As I write these lines I can see on my table some of his gifted dry fruits for this winter.

May his soul rest in peace and Sadqa of our beloved Prophet Hazrat Muhammad (salahu alihi wasalam) bestowed on him and all of us by ALLAH. Ameen.

Mehndi, Eid-ul-Azha, Karachi

2011-12-10T07:27:00.001+05:00

Mehndi, Eid-ul-Azha, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 9th December, 2008.

Location: Karachi, Pakistan.

Via Flickr:
A Muslim girl shoes her hand - but hides her face - to reveal beautiful mehndi on the occasion of Islamic festival of Eid-ul-Azha, also known as Eid-e-Qurban. On this day, Haj in Makkah comes to an end and the slaughter of halal animals (lamb, goat, cow, camel) commences. Across the world Muslims, who can purchase the animal, celebrate Eid starting from Eid prayers and then slaughtering their animals, as per Islamic injunctions. This Eid is for three days and depends on the lunar calendar.

[This is my sister showing her exquisite mehndi. Applying mehndi in Pakistan may cost you anywhere between Rs.30 and Rs.15,000 / hand].

Celebrating Eid-ul-Fitr

2011-12-10T07:18:00.001+05:00

Celebrating Eid-ul-Fitr
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 14th October, 2007.

Via Flickr:
All decked up for Eid-ul-Fitr, a 3-day Islamic festival celebrated at the end of the Holy month of Ramadan.

A Muslim girl displays her Eid best. It is tradition in many Muslim countries that woman, whether married or un-married, cover their hands with dark pigment called mehndi (in Urdu & Hindi languages) or Henna (in English). Most of them also wear colourful, matching bangles, and buy trendy clothes and shoes.

[One of my most favourite photographs. It is a cultural image and is now available for sale at Getty Images]

Memon winter breakfast: Hara lehsun with bajray ki roti, Karachi

2011-12-09T10:03:00.001+05:00

Memon winter breakfast: Hara lehsun with bajray ki roti, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
This is a confirmed Memon / Gujerati winter breakfast across Karachi, parts of India (Ahmedabad and other cities and towns of Gujerat province, South Africa, UK and parts of USA where this linguistic / ethnic group resides). We are Memons and every winter we get to eat this nicely cooked breakfast. It consists of finely chopped spring garlic mixed with either bajray ki roti or chakki ka atta and served with dahi. If you want, you may have chai or sugarcane juice. I prefer chai as sugarcane juice is hard to get at this time. You may also have brinjal.

Foot series: Shrine near Amerkot, Sindh

2011-12-08T10:12:00.001+05:00

Foot series: Tomb in Umerkot
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 9th January, 2005.

This is a beautiful blue tiled Muslim Saint's shrine near Amerkot (now Islamized to Umerkot after creation of Pakistan). Islamists don't agree but most historians now agree that Umerkot is actually Amerkot. It was named after a Hindu Raja.

The reason I and Adeel are here is because of the invitation we received by our friend, Harish Kumar, who lives nearby, and who at that time was studying with us at MAJU, Karachi campus. When we finally arrived via a very enjoyable journey on bus from Karachi there was no Harish Kumar to be found anywhere. And there were no mobile phones, either, to help us around. So we called at his home in Karachi - and thanks to me that I had his number - and asked him to immediately leave everything which we doing in Karachi and come here. He was rather taken back that we were actually in his town roaming its dirty, pre-partition type streets. So he came, almost crashing on Amerkot / Umerkot, and we met up next day. And we roamed around, including a visit to this Shrine. Nearby was a revered Hindu temple. I will need to contact Harish for the names of the two.

[For earlier entries on Foot Series, please see 30th November, 2011]

Welcome to Pakistan: Chaman border

2011-12-06T18:15:00.001+05:00

Welcome to Pakistan: Chaman border with Afghanistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 3rd June, 2010.

On 1st Moharram, 1433, NATO forces (Read: American crusaders) fired at Pakistan border posts killing 24 Army men including a Major and a Captain. Pakistan, as a measure of revenge, stopped all NATO oil tankers, equipment and food containers at its two borders, Torkham (NWFP) and Chaman (Balochistan; Photograph). All Generals along with Kiyani met PM, Gilani, and it was discussed that the upcoming Bonn conference on Afghanistan would be boycotted as well. Americans were also asked to release Shamsi airbase, 300 KM from Quetta. Americans accepted without much hassle but asked Pakistanis to reconsider attending Bonn conference. Pakistan declined, mostly because PPP wants votes in upcoming elections and daylight attack on Armed Forces of Pakistan has rallied entire country against America. PPP cannot, even if it wants to, do anything about this public outrage. Let us see these events and so-called swift decisions in a different light.

We know from various sources that much of the budget of Pakistan Army, including its fighter jets and missiles, comes from US Army. American Congress can easily put a stop to all that, if Pakistan somehow refuses to tow American line. Our Generals, atleast most of them, appear to be on friendly terms with US Army and CIA. There's lot of information being passed to American Government by our Army personal. So even if Kiyani wants to put an end to transportation of NATO equipment and oil, he will have to think a lot about his fighter jets, their spare parts and the sort of intelligence that we presently have. We are no match for the gigantic Indian Armed Forces and we cannot afford to look into the eye of NATO and Americans right now. And I am sure that is actually not what Kiyani intends to do. He intends to put a break to continuous towing of American line. That will certainly improve his image among Pakistanis and specially among Armed Forces personal. That may be necessary now or he could face internal conflict from his juniors. That would be rather disastrous for our Army and our country.

As for the release of Shamsi Airbase is concerned, it is well known that this base is used by Arabs during winter months. They land here and hunt their favourite migratory bird, Horbura Bustard. Therefore, Americans actually did not oblige Pakistanis, they obliged their thorough allies, the Arabs. (Americans will need Arabs when they attack Iran next year). Therefore, Pakistanis should not be very happy when Americans say they are vacating this base. Yes, they are but that is not because Pakistan Army has asked them to. In any case, there are so many bases from where Drones may be flown into Pakistan that Shamsi airbase only acted as a secondary base for them. It was primarily used for servicing rather than flying drones.

As for NATO containers and tankers, it is life line for many well-connected Pashtuns and Punjabis. These contractors have become immensely rich and powerful and it is unlikely that our lame, democratic government will be able to continue to stop them for long. NATO has oil for around 4.5 months in advance. So they won't be loosing any sleep over these oil containers. And, as stated earlier, as much of funds and equipment comes from US directly to our Army, it is highly unlikely that these containers will be sitting idle for more than 20 days on a stretch.

Yes, but there is one point on which Pakistan can play really nicely on NATO / ISAF sentiments: Iran. Americans are preparing feasibility reports on Iran and are looking for various reactions from its immediate neighbors. Pakistan could be a troublesome country for our leadership is Shia (President as well as General Pasha are Shias). And naturally there is lot of sympathy for the fellow Shias across Taftan border. By delaying NATO containers Pakistan might just be giving signal to American forces in Afghanistan and elsewhere that they won't become a part of allied war on Iran. This could be the key for a stable region. But, our hands are tied fast. Let us see whether we can withstand the nerve test.

Fruit & Vegetable seller, Kolpur, Balochistan

2011-12-06T14:49:00.001+05:00

Fruit & Vegetable seller, Kolpur, Balochistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 4th June, 2010.

(There are two entries from Kolpur from my Balochistan diary. See June & July 2010).

I really wanted to share this photograph. Sky was stark blue and it appears bluer because of the brownish contrast provided by mud backed shops and the equally muddy mountain in the background. The man is also wearing brownish clothes. And he is selling his fruits placed in brown wooden cartons, as is custom in this country. But this photograph does not tell you about its history.

Last year or so many of the Punjabis were asked by Baloch nationalists to vacate their shops here or face the music. People not aware with the geo-politics of Balochistan province must be reminded that few of the Baloch tribes are fighting for independence or larger automy for their province. Foreign hands are playing their dirty game here.

I personally love this small, muddy town. It is extremely photogenic and you may wander around for 2-4 hours here. It is perhaps 35 minutes from Quetta, provincial capital of Balochistan.

Portraits from Kashmir : Chikar village

2011-12-04T10:10:00.001+05:00

Portraits from Kashmir : Chikar village
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

November, 2005 | After Earthquake

Via Flickr:
I very clearly remember this cold morning of November, 2005. Waqar, a friend of mine from Muhammad Ali Jinnah University (MAJU), had accompanied me to this village alongwith members of Dawat-e-Islami to distribute aid among the quake survivors. These two children had also arrived alongwith their father or grandfather. And the younger one just looked too mischievous - and tempting - for a frame.

Portraits from Kashmir : Mr.Qadri, Chikar village

2011-12-04T10:08:00.001+05:00

Portraits from Kashmir : Mr.Qadri, Chikar village
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

November, 2005 | After Earthquake

Via Flickr:
His home was one of the few which had survived the horrible earthquake of October, 2005, in Chikar, Azad Kashmir. We had a good lunch at his him and he was gracious to show us around his village. I wanted to stay longer but there was too much work to be done and we were always short of time.

Portraits from Kashmir : Banjoosa village

2011-12-04T10:06:00.001+05:00

Portraits from Kashmir : Banjoosa village
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

November, 2005 | After Earthquake

Via Flickr:
She had just returned from her school and I asked her to stop so that I could take her photograph. She was very shy so a lot of insisting went in from her parents. She finally relented and I had this portrait made.

Portraits from Kashmir : Banjoosa village

2011-12-04T10:05:00.001+05:00

Portraits from Kashmir : Banjoosa village
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

November, 2005 | After Earthquake

Via Flickr:
I visited her partially destroyed house and I asked her for a portrait. She was very shy and probably sad as well. So she just kept her eyes low, in time honored Eastern-Islamic concept of modesty. I really like her stripped chador matching with her forehead lines.

Shrine of Shah Abdul Lateef Bhitai, Sindh, Pakistan

2011-12-02T10:09:00.001+05:00

Shrine of Shah Abdul Lateef Bhitai, Sindh, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 11th February, 2009.

We are standing atop an incomplete hotel. This hotel, whatever its name, was where we had stayed for the night. And this is the vision from its roof. I could see the birds flying around, turning over and over again the central, Main dome of the revered tomb of Sufi poet of Sindhi language, Sain Shah Abdul Lateef Bhittai. He is arguably the most quoted Sufi Saint in Sindh. And people from Seraiki belt, which formerly used to part of Sindh province, visit here in their huge numbers, drinking chai and partaking of hasheesh. So much so that amidst Sufi music, played beautifully by ancient looking men (more of them later) the atmosphere is simply mysterious. The smoke obscuring the features of the musicians, the listeners deep in their thought. Most of the audience cannot understand this beautiful poetry - even many Sindhis cannot, but that does not mean any lack of interest. I highly recommend Thursday night at this Shrine. The poetry and the music is remarkable in its beauty of diction, atmosphere and the historical surroundings. Don't you ever forget your voice recorders, like I did!

Boy is born to Ameer Hamza

2011-12-02T06:38:00.001+05:00

Boy is born to Ameer Hamza
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 1st December, 2011 / 6th Moharram, 1433 Hijri.

Time: 7:25 PM (P.S.T / +5.00 GMT)
Hospital: OMI, Saddar, Karachi
Wt. at birth: 3.25 Kg.

Name: Un-decided as to the time of the this blog (6:33 AM P.S.T).

The foot series of my travels had to be interrupted to accommodate this photograph of my first son. His name is yet undecided at the time of the writing of this blog but Inshallah it is expected that we will have the name today afternoon. Part reason is that we want to name him on Friday (today), and we'v been lucky to have son on the night between Thursday and Friday (Islamic / Lunar calender: 6th Moharram-ul-Haram, 1433 Hizri).

More photographs are expected today. Let us see.

[p.s I know this is not a travel-related photograph. But it surely is a breaking news of sorts!]

Foot Series: EXPLORERS at Jhaki Bander ruins, Arabian Sea, Pakistan

2011-12-01T12:12:00.001+05:00

Explorers
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 23rd December, 2007.

Well, actually feet. The same place as below but with lots of feet added. These are the participants - my friends from my university - who had accompanied me to this site. Among them are: Uzair Tahir, Ather Usmani, Asad Hayat Akhtar, Umair Rehman & Ali Pahore.

Foot Series: Jhaki Bander ruins, Arabian Sea, Pakistan

2011-12-01T11:50:00.001+05:00

My foot at Jhaki Bander ruins
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 23rd December, 2007.

This is one of the better shots. It is self evident, I think. You know immediately how it is to walk among these ruins. As a photographer in love with this beautiful place I wanted to share an image of myself, in the condition we are were in, along with the landscape of the place. The weather, as I may note, was overcast and beautiful. The red floor is actually a bed of broken fort tiles. This must have been an ancient fort, probably dating after 800 AD. But this place is incredible and more astonishing is the fact that even many historians of Pakistan are not aware of this site.

p.s Are you wondering where are my shoes or sandals? Well, they were in my hands because it was simply impossible to go around in shoes. They got dirty and they stuck in this sticky mud. Never mind the sharp edges of these long-shredded bricks!

Foot Series: Thar desert, Mithi, Sindh province

2011-12-01T11:42:00.001+05:00

My foot, Thar desert, Mithi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 8th November, 2009.

Ah, the sands of my Thar desert. They are so charming, curvy, beautiful. Adjectives may soon run out but the sands remain, curvy as ever. And sometimes, treacherous.

I clearly remember the day when this shot was taken. Sky was a beautiful blue. Sands were brown. And there were people from across Pakistan. They were participating in a Jeep rally in the deserts. I have personally never approved of these rallies because they can harm local wildlife. But such rallies provide chance for the locals to interact with world-weary people from outside.

p.s This chappal I still have. Thanks to GOD!

Foot Series: Bhambhore, Sindh province

2011-12-01T11:36:00.001+05:00

My Foot at Bhambhore
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 5th November, 2006.

Long before I started travel blogging I was doing this foot series on my travels. I cannot remember clearly why I started this but I did. And some of my friends really liked the idea. Since then, from time to time, I have continued doing this. But I am sorry to say that many great places were missed, where foot photography would have been outright dangerous.

p.s This sandal was later stolen from outside a local masjid near my home. I must report that these were one of the best travel partners I ever had. Made by Sputnik.

Life: World in our hands

2011-12-01T07:35:00.001+05:00

Life: World in our hands
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

I really like the feel of this photograph. The hands have good, sharp lines; the flowers have just bloomed; and it is spring time already at Rajpar village, Khairpur district, Sindh province, Pakistan.

The hands are those of my friend, Uzair Tahir. I, him and Haroon travelled to Lahore from Karachi on his old, 1989-model Mehran car and we had stayed at this village because my peon had told me to stop at his village, if I wanted to. Yes, off course, I wanted to.

25th December : Quaid's Tomb & The Common Man

2011-11-29T10:14:00.001+05:00

Quaid's Tomb & The Common Man
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

On a question recently put across on the board by Pakistan Blog Awards team to all of us bloggers, 'What would every bloggers message be for Pakistan, this 25th of December, our Founding Father's birthday?', I put up this photograph, shot by me on 25th Dec, 2006, by my good Nikon and with due permission from a good, old friend in Pakistan Army. Here is what I wrote after uploading this photograph:

Via Flickr:
During the celebrations of the Birthday anniversary of Leader and Founder of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, common men were asked to stand outside the main gate while the VIP's (Read: Dacoits and Politicians) prayed and socialized over the dead body of their leader.

I am always ashamed by the workings of this country and its politicians when I see this photograph. This country was not made for looters and politicians and army junta. It was made for common Muslims, Hindus, Sikhs, Christians and for Parsis and for those who would like to live their life according to their own wishes. Unfortunately for the man who created it and for all of us, we now find ourselves among the angry mullahs and the duck-headed leaders.

- You got the point.

Published: Express Tribune Mag Nov 27- Dec 3, 2011

2011-11-27T12:52:00.001+05:00

Published: Express Tribune Mag Nov 27- Dec 3, 2011
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Article by Adil Mulki

Photographs by Ameer Hamza

As so happens with so many Pakistan-based publications, the editors really don't consider publishing the name of the photographer(s). And that is a sad reality and reflects the general thinking among the editors here: Photographs are not as important as a write-up. They are wrong. And everyone else is wrong who considers photographs as secondary. You just need to pick any issue of National Geographic.

You may read the wonderfully penned article here:

'Outside, the desert sun beats down on the baked and barren dunes, but inside the customised SUV, it’s another world. The AC is on full blast and the tinted windows filter the unforgiving rays of the sun into diffused light. Plush seats provide a level of comfort one would find impossible to imagine in such a harsh environment. Beep…beep…beep. The silence is broken by the sound of the scanner; the vehicle comes to a sudden halt, sending the soft desert sands cascading down the dune that it is now precariously perched atop.'

More...http://tribune.com.pk/story/296325/inglourious-bustards/#comment-437326

My home before my wedding

2011-11-26T04:59:00.001+05:00

My home before my wedding
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 2nd February, 2009.

Location: My home, Karachi.

Via Flickr:
More work next day: My father (foreground, bending) checks out something as my brother, Ovais, looks for space amidst hoards of items stacked onto one another. Marriage is one big game in Pakistan, which you have to play. And everyone is required to help you out. You can just imagine the predicament of my parents and my siblings in re-arranging all the stuff, just in time for my wedding on 20th March, 2009. This photograph is a reminder of all that transpired.

My home before my wedding

2011-11-26T04:58:00.001+05:00

My home before my wedding
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 1st February, 2009.

Location: My home, Karachi.

Via Flickr:
My wedding took place on 20th March, 2009. But before that lot of shifting was done to create space for my incoming stuff, what you call jahez furniture (dowry), and assortment of items. This is my brother, Ovais Adhia, sleeping after spending a day full of work, both at office and at home.

Daily Life: Washing at Sufi Shrine, Karachi

2011-11-25T21:53:00.001+05:00

Washing at Sufi Shrine, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 3rd June, 2007.

This was a good day for photography. Some great shots came through. I particularly like this one. It is full of a typical life around this Shrine of Pir Haji Syed Sakhi Sultan (RA). The hot sulphur spring water, from whose water these two men are bathing, is known to cure skin ailments. And there could be some truth in this: We know from various scientific studies that sulphur waters from spring may cure certain diseases; it also helps to make you fresh as an orange. I tried that too and was happy with the results. But not this time. I think these two men were initially embarrassed that a photographer had popped from nowhere, clicking away continuously.

I also like the worn down structure to the left of the frame, the keekar trees, the un-plastered wall, and one of the men pulling down his shalwar; other one was probably waiting for me to move out before he could remove his shalwar. I moved away. Thanks to me!

Marsh crocs at Hot sulphur springs, Karachi

2011-11-23T23:33:00.001+05:00

Marsh crocs at Hot sulphur springs, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Danger lurks around every corner of the frame: Nile delta marsh crocodiles pop their heads out of the hot sulphur spring found at the Shrine of Sufi Saint, Hazrat Pir Haji Sakhi Sultan (RA). This surely is one of the most fascinating places in the country and surely the oldest Sufi Shrine in Karachi.

For detailed reading of this interesting subject, you must read the following article / blog:

http://pakistaniat.com/2009/06/18/the-mysteries-of-manghopir-shrine-crocodiles-and-sulphur-springs-part-1/

Feeding marsh crocodiles at Sufi Shrine, Karachi

2011-11-23T23:13:00.001+05:00

Feeding marsh crocodiles at Sufi Shrine, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 3rd June, 2007.

This is Sheedi, or black man, standing among the most dangerous crocodiles on Earth: Marsh crocodiles from River Nile. No one knows how they ended up here, thousands of miles from their original place, in the barren of Karachi at a Sufi Shrine near Karachi (now Manghopir, as this place is called, is part of Karachi due to horizontal expansion of the city).

The legend is that these crocodiles are actually lice of the Saint, who threw them into this spring. And they became crocodiles!

Shrine of Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad, Sharakpur Sharif

2011-11-22T07:33:00.001+05:00

Shrine, Sharakpur Sharif, Punjab, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 8th June, 2011.

And then, after performing wuzu, we entered the small, peaceful, re-constructed shrine of Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad. Inside, in a small room there were three graves of which one is here photographed. I had my 50mm on which did not allow me enough space to shoot. The place was good and the heat, which was outside now raging, was in control here. Birds were chirping and few people, among them the caretaker of the Shrine, were present. All were in awe of the Saint. I was happy that I was here. I have always respected Saints because it is due to their tireless efforts that most of us are Muslims. We prayed silently, I took further photographs, and then we moved on.

I was soon reminded by father of Haroon, who was with me for the first time on any trip, that it was the day of Haroon's shadi and we better get to Lahore in time. And so we hurried off....

Making ablutions at Shrine of Hazrat Mian Sher, Sharakpur Sharif

2011-11-22T06:57:00.001+05:00

Making ablutions at Shrine of Hazrat Mian Sher, Sharakpur Sharif
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 8th June, 2011.

This is my friend and travel partner, Adeel, making Wuzu (Islamic ablutions) at the Mazar / Shrine of Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad. About him, one website has this to say, 'Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad was one of the famous Saints of Punjab who got a reputation in Naqshbandiyyah Series (Silsala). He was born as a saint.' ..... And, 'With his blessings many dead hearts were lightened with divine light. Even still now his name is called with respect and devotion.

The Naqshbandy forefathers of Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad migrated from Kabul to Punjab and lived in Qasoor. Then migrated from Qasoor to Hujra Shah Makeem and then Sharaqpur. The father’s name of Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad was Mian Aziz Aladdin. His ethnicity was Arian. His family’s professional business was cultivation. Hazrat Mian Sher Muhammad was born in Sharaqpur in 1865 CE (1282 H). After his birth from his body and shining face, the symptoms of as a saint were clear.'

You may read full details about this and other Saints of Sharaqpur Sharif (Lonely Planet Guide to Pakistan pronounces it as 'Sharakpur' Sharif).

http://www.sharaqpur.com/Hazrat_Mian_Sher_Muhammad.aspx

It is essential part of Sunni Barelvi belief system that before entering graveyard (qabar'istan) and therefore, any Tomb / Shrine, one must be ritually pure. Therefore, we Sunni Barelvis make wuzu before making our hazri (appearance) in front of Sufi Saint.

Portrait: Shoemaker, Old city of Sharkapur Sharif

2011-11-21T12:11:00.001+05:00

Portrait: Shoemaker, Old city of Sharkapur Sharif
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 8th June, 2011.

Another trip, another sweltering heat, another place, another interesting person. This time it is Central Punjab (or is it just Punjab?) and we are here - me, Haroon's father and Adeel - at an old town of Sharakpur Sharif (also pronounced and written as, 'Sharaqpur'). And the first interesting person we see is this cobbler / shoemaker sitting on a pavement just outside the old city gate (there are three or four of these left now), polishing the Peshawari sandal. I say my salam and take his photograph but his response, unlike many there, is lukewarm. He isn't smiling at all. But he allows me the frame. I use 50mm for this frame and I think it just came out nicely.

Pakistani truck, Indus Highway, Sindh

2011-11-21T11:56:00.001+05:00

Pakistani truck, Indus Highway, Sindh
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

We were going to Sehwan Sharif. I think we were four then: Me, Suffian Adhia, Raja Islam and Uzair Tahir. Or, maybe, one of the last two were missing. I cannot now recall because I don't have a group photograph. But I can very clearly recall the heat outside the car. The heat of Sindh is remarkable: It can kill you instantly.

This decorated truck was moving slowly in front of our speeding car. Being a double track (2-way traffic) the incoming cars were not allowing any space to move ahead of this truck. I took advantage of this situation and took the shot using, perhaps, Raja's Canon. I am happy with the results. And I am always happy when I see well maintained, decorated Pakistani trucks on the road. They are a moving form of cultural / folk art.

Chestnut tree leaves, Chitral

2011-11-20T12:46:00.001+05:00

Chestnut tree leaves, Chitral
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

In my diary style reporting on the latest trip (9th September, 2011 - 25th September, 2011) I did not mention this photograph of chestnut tree leaves lying on the garden just outside the Chitral Fort.

I like this photograph very much. Firstly, because a traveller to Chitral MUST never miss them. This tree epitomizes the stature of the man in Chitrali society. I was informed by a local Chitrali that every self-respecting must have this tree in his home garden. By that definition, the most powerful and rich man in Chitral, the Mehtar of Chitral (former rulers) should have lots of good chestnut trees. And sure enough there are those large, over 100-years old, grand chestnut trees all over the place. Their size must be understood via this frame of giant leaves on the floor.

Nature : Marine Turtles, Hawksbay, Karachi

2011-11-18T01:11:00.001+05:00

Nature: Marine Turtles
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
One of the most magnificent species from the sea and from the land, Marine turtles defy common logic and much else to live their long, adventurous, often hazardous lives on oceans and on selected beaches of the world. They are a lovely creature full of enthusiasm for life and for their beautiful kids.

Their story begins much before they are born. Their mothers, totally aware of issues related to protection of species, lay many eggs. Many eventually won't turn out turtles at all. Some will be eaten by stray dogs, or crows or eagles. Others would be gulped down by various sea species. The left behind turtles would eventually grow up to become the mothers and fathers of this wonderland. They would, in their lifetime, travel thousands of kilometers to feed and to nest.

Pakistan's Sand spit beach (also called Turtle beach) is one of the rare nesting grounds for two species of Marine turtles, the Olive Ridley Turtle (Lepidochelys olivacea) and the Green Turtle (Chelonia mydas).

Heritage: Saint Paul's Church, Manoora, Karachi

2011-11-18T01:08:00.001+05:00

Heritage: Saint Paul's Church
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Saint Paul's Church, Manora Island, Karachi, Pakistan.

It is a Protestant Church located at Coordinates: 24°47'37"N 66°58'39"E

Work: Begging at Empress Market

2011-11-18T01:07:00.001+05:00

Work: Begging at Empress Market
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:
Begging at Karachi's premier market, Empress. Poverty is on the rise as inflation breaks new records, as more and more firms are closed down, and as more Pakistanis leave the country for good. Further afield, many Afghans are pouring down with no limbs or no hands or both, courtesy Soviet era land mines, which have devastated entire families and a way of life. Nine out of ten chances are that this beggar belongs to Afghanistan.

Portrait: Blind faqir, Jamshoro

2011-11-18T01:04:00.001+05:00

Portrait: Blind faqir, Jamshoro
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

It's September, its sweltering and it's 2006. General Musharraf is at the peak of his power but somehow the PPP wallahs and the courts are somewhat not easy with him. Pakistan's economy is shooting like hell. We are hearing the new money stars: Aqueel Karim Dadi, the Machyaras, the Mengals, the Sardars, Baloch nationalists... but where are the poor?

Here they are, in this frame. I love this frame for what it is. And I am doubly happy that it won a coveted Guardian (London) photography award. The editor at Guardian had this to say on this shot:

" 'Meet the Faqirs' stars grumpy Robert De Niro as a retired CIA operative who is relocated to Pakistan. Once there, he falls in with a wise blind grandmother and her soulful offspring - committed ascetics who have sworn off wordly possessions in their quest for spiritual enlightenment." '

There's nothing more left to say on this!

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)

2011-11-17T11:17:00.001+05:00

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Kalat Fort

Khan-e-Kalat's Darbar

Page 4

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)

2011-11-17T11:16:00.003+05:00

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Kalat Fort

Khan-e-Kalat's Darbar

Page 3

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)

2011-11-17T11:16:00.001+05:00

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Kalat Fort

Khan-e-Kalat's Darbar

Page 2

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)

2011-11-17T11:14:00.001+05:00

Published: Humsafar magazine Sep-Oct 2011 (PIA)
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Kalat Fort

Khan-e-Kalat's Darbar

Page 1

Lowari Tunnel, NHA Office, Pakistan

2011-11-17T11:12:00.001+05:00

Lowari Tunnel, NHA Office, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

This photograph marks the end of my photography session of the entire trip, which stretches from our trek till this place. The heat had vanished suddenly, heavy clouds were hovering around and there was this general feeling that the place was tense but exceedingly beautiful. I was informed at this checkpost that all foreigners are now banned from visiting this place anymore due to espionage problems. Even Pakistanis - all of them and without any distinction - are stopped here and asked to produce their ID cards. Additionally, we were asked to delete all photographs of nearby places. I questioned the rationale here because, if you search google.com and flickr.com, then you will come across hundreds of photographs of this beautiful place. I let it pass and so did Zahid bhai. But Zahid bhai was also able to take the frame of Pakistan-Afghanistan border.

Way to Lowari tunnel and top, Pakistan

2011-11-17T11:06:00.001+05:00

Way to Lowari tunnel and top, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

And we were here, almost. We could just make out the haze surrounding the famed Lowari top. I could have been dreaming. The Pakistani trucks, decorated like brides, coming towards us in a single, slow, steady file. We weren't allowed to take the photograph of this very sensitive place. Our driver had told us to take photographs but discreetly. But the Army wallah had specifically requested us to avoid them altogether. Our ID cards had now been seen more times than in all of our 12-day trip previously. There was certainly something wrong with this place or the sensibilities. And then, I was reminded by our friend that during past Eid 250 Pakistani madrassah boys had been kidnapped by Taliban from across Afghanistan. More recently they had killed lot of Pakistani soldiers here. Understandably, photography was not permitted.

From Chitral to Lowari Pass

2011-11-17T11:01:00.001+05:00

From Chitral to Lowari Pass
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 23rd Sep, 2011.

And our Toyota passed numerous mountains, people and places before coming to a screeching halt outside this stone place. I wasn't sure why until our driver informed us that new driver will take his place, instead. He would be sleeping in the trunk!

Whilst all preparations were taking place, we bargained for the pomegranates (5 Kg for Rs.350, no less); and I took this frame of a boy outside his stone home. This was also the home of our new, youngish driver. I cannot recall the name of the driver now. We picked up the speed again...

Chitral, Pakistan: Toyota everywhere

2011-11-17T10:53:00.001+05:00

My vehicle fro Chitral onwards...
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

The photograph before this upload, that of Ayun valley, was taken after jumping out from this Toyota station wagon. In fact, everyone had jumped out of this vehicle to take that previous frame. A personal touch won't be out of place.

But I had forgotten to upload this photograph before. I wanted to share with you this DEVDAS and 'King of Chitral'; the PS number plate indicates that the custom had not been paid on this one and that it cannot be taken out of this province. Period. But you now know that the provincial government supports active rather than passive smuggling of vehicles.

This is Chitral and this frame was shot just before leaving the place.

Places in Pakistan: Ayun valley, Chitral dist.

2011-11-15T19:57:00.001+05:00

Landscapes of Pakistan: Ayun valley, Chitral dist.
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Via Flickr:

September 23, 2011 at 12.42pm PKT

We were already late because I and Adeel had been roaming around the fort and then talking with the manager of the lodge. All that time, three others had been waiting impatiently near our hired car. According to them, when finally we reached them, we had wasted a lot of time and that we must be responsible, if we cannot make across the curfew. The curfew, as I was to know later, is in place every evening at Lowari tunnel due to Taliban. And I knew that we would be racing against time and military wallahs. I also knew that there would be no photography at or around Lowari tunnel, a project imitated by General Musharraf to ease the traffic flow in that strategically important area. Hence, we moved away and reached this beautiful place. Everyone, including Zahid bhai, who'd be dripping with anger, jumped out of the station wagon to shoot this stunning landscape.

One of the most beautiful valleys of Pakistan, Ayun valley is the gateway to the famous Kalash Kafir villages. I was lucky to have shaded clouds, which provided me with a classic landscape shot.

Places in Pakistan: Markhor horns, Chitral

2011-11-15T19:44:00.001+05:00

Markhor horns, Chitral
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

September 23, 2011 at 11.19am PKT

We walked around the massive walls of the fort only to be informed about the presence of Mir of Chitral's family staying within the premises. Despite the fact that this little kingdom was abolished by Government of Pakistan long time ago, this fort remains the personal property of the Mirs. People love them and they enjoy immense popularity in the city and beyond. I met so many Chitralis who told me that they would have been much happier had Mirs still be ruling Chitral district, as in previous times. But I and Adeel weren't at all happy because his presence meant we would not be able to go inside. Therefore, we turned sharply right and entered this beautiful guest house. And on its restaurant entrance there were these magnificent Markhor horns. I duly clicked and talked with its manager about tourists. He told me that the season was already closed and therefore, there weren't any tourists around here. We left without drinking our tea.

Places in Pakistan: Chitral Fort

2011-11-14T10:35:00.001+05:00

Chitral Fort, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 23rd Sep, 2011.

After photographing and roaming around Chitral's Shahi masjid and after talking with its chief Imam, follower of Deobandi sect of Islam, we both moved towards Chitral Fort.

This is Adeel, with my heavy Lowpro camera bag, moving across the stone and mortar walls of the Chitral Fort. The area is completely shaded by giant chestnut trees (more of them later). The day was hot and a welcome sunshine as well. But too hot a day may also be not good for photography. After walking around these walls we were not permitted to enter the fort because the family of the Mir of Chitral, former rulers of the Kingdom, were here from Federal Capital, Islamabad, for their summers.

Places in Pakistan: Chitral Shahi Masjid

2011-11-13T23:28:00.001+05:00

Chitral Shahi Masjid, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Here I am. This is me. Oh, Chitral, how much I wanted to see you in your full glory. I was so tired and so happy to have reached here and so happy too to have such a brilliant sunlight. Readers, my friends, you must note that I always wanted to visit this masjid in my life. The failure of our trekking expedition to Karombar lake made this dream possible. Otherwise, it wasn't in our plan. But ALLAH plans what we cannot.

As a traveller in Pakistan, you must visit all the main towns of Northern Pakistan. And you MUST visit Chitral for its good-humoured people and its historical sites and the shahi bazaar, just outside this masjid. Here is some detail about the place from Wikipedia:

'Chitral or Chetrar (Urdu: چترال), translated as field in the native language Khowar, is the capital of the Chitral District, situated on the western bank of the Kunar River (also called Chitral River), in Pakistan. The town is at the foot of Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush, 25,289 ft (7,708 m) high. It has a population of 20,000, while the district (of 14,833 km² or 5,727 sq mi), has a population of 300,000. The altitude of the valley is 3,700 ft (1,100 m).'

College students, Chitral district, Pakistan

2011-11-13T23:17:00.001+05:00

College students, Chitral district, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Another photograph taken from a moving vehicle. So Zahid bhai advised me to increase shutter speed over 500/s and take a horizontal shot rather than an angled one. This helped as our Toyota was moving at over 80 KM / Hour speed.

Trees of Pakistan: From Mastuj to Chitral

2011-11-13T23:15:00.001+05:00

From Mastuj to Chitral
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

September 23, 2011

Trees are the lifeline of our planet. And trees of Pakistan, like trees of rest of the World, are just outstanding. This one was shinning brightly due to the sunlight coming on to it directly. Off course, the photograph was taken from a moving vehicle. But I imagine that it came out nicely.

REQUEST: Can some kindly name this tree for me. That would be great.

People & Places: Chitrali

2011-11-13T23:07:00.001+05:00

Portrait: Chitrali
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

And I shot him as well. He had just jumped on our luggage, with the permission of our driver, and was a fellow villager. He was surely handsome with his Chitrali cap, the central theme of every gentleman's attire in this region. His immaculate dressing of light blue kameez shalwar and contrasting waist coat completed the frame. I would surely had liked to photograph him among the mountains, away from our Hilux. But time was short, I was reminded by the driver and Zahid bhai. And so we moved on.

Places in Pakistan: Chitral district, Pakistan

2011-11-13T23:03:00.001+05:00

Chitral district, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

September 23, 2011 at 7.25am PKT

Most of the photographs were taken while on the run. We were suddenly short of time. Zahid bhai wanted to rejoin his office; Danial wanted to reach Karachi on time so that he may get his onward flight to Mauritius - after two days. Adeel Ather wanted to join his children as soon as possible. We two were in no hurry. But majority wins. The exception to the rule was this landscape which everyone wanted to shoot. So we jumped out and got the frame. But the large shadow over the river partly ruins the very charm of the place. Nevertheless, the place was breathtaking.

Places in Pakistan: Mastuj, Pakistan

2011-11-13T22:53:00.001+05:00

Packing at Mastuj, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

September 23, 2011 at 6.25am PKT

Via Flickr:

On this day, we had woken at 5:30, brushed our teeth and had a hearty breakfast of anda, paratha, apples and great chai. We left around 6:30 AM and reached Chitral, after a bumpy ride, at around 11 AM. The driver was very experienced - and the same man at whose home we had stayed and so much enjoyed his home's pears and apples. We got great breakfast and chai.

Places in Pakistan: En-route to Mastuj, Pakistan

2011-11-13T22:46:00.001+05:00

En-route to Mastuj, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 21 Sep, 2011.
Time: 5.13pm PKT

You can imagine our condition while looking at this photograph of my sleepy, tired friend, Adeel. We both were more tired than the other three for we had walked over 5 Km earlier in the day. Other three had spent most of their time in or around their room, fretting about the NATCO bus. And they had missed truly wonderful photographs. They would regret it when I showed them the day's results.

I cannot remember the name of this place but the name of the restaurant was Shandur and it was our pit stop on our way to Mastuj, now very near. At dusk we reached Mastuj and it was dark and cold. And there was a cheap hotel to stay at. But one kind stranger offered us his home and food for a night.

I always wonder about the incredible hospitality of Pakistanis of rural areas. We urbanites may never imagine such levels of kindness extended to complete strangers. But here we were in his house, munching away at brilliant pears and apples and gulping down kehwa.

Places in Pakistan: Shandur Pass, Pakistan

2011-11-13T22:32:00.001+05:00

Shandur Pass, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Finally we reached hotel, packed our bags, rechecked the room and soon we were standing on the middle of the road, now empty, waiting for NATCO bus to arrive anytime. And it arrived. But before it did, its sound reached us. We scrambled for the best of places; Zahid bhai again proved to be an opportunist. No problem. Somehow more travel makes you an opportunist. I don't like to say this but somehow modern travellers really become much more impatient than they would have been earlier. I am not sure why this is.

Shandur Top (el. 12,200 feet (3,700 m)) located in District Ghizer of Gilgit-Baltistan.

After hours of travelling we reached Shandur Pass. Shandur-Top in Ghizer is often called the 'Roof of the World' where the Hindukush in Gilgit-Baltistan, Between Afghanistan and Gilgit-Baltistan and Karakorum mountainous ranges of Gilgit-Baltistan meet. The top is flat, a plateau and can be crossed between late April and early November. The grade is very gradual, and the area is crossed by small streams of trout. Grazing in summer is plentiful. (This part is taken from Wikipedia). Onwards our NATCO rumbled but before it could do that, it stopped at the Army checkpost. Papers were checked and randomly some of the passengers were asked to show their ID cards. In Pakistan, ID card is known as NIC.

School Children, Phander, Pakistan

2011-11-13T22:23:00.001+05:00

School Children, Phander, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 22nd Sep, 2011.

Via Flickr:
These school children were returning from their school in a triumphant mood. The reason: They had just won a football match at school. This boy is holding his little trophy, which I found very cute. And they were just making lot of noise around while walking and they walked with me till a great distance. They parted after hugging me and calling me a 'nice man'. It was the best compliment received on this trip.

Places in Pakistan: School children, Phander

2011-11-11T23:13:00.001+05:00

School children, Phander
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 22nd Sep, 2011.

Here I was on the bridge, previously blogged about, standing among good, cheerful school children. They were returning from their school, talking, discussing their 'miss', and what not. I think some of them were also discussing the match they had won. I imagine watching the match but off course I was wandering their village streets. I requested the boy on the extreme right of the frame to line his fellow students for my frame. Initially they were a bit hesitant. But then they agreed. I think they looked good while standing on the landmark bridge of their village. Someone even asked me whether I would be sending in the photograph at their address. I am not sure if I answered that properly - or even, correctly. But they were glad that someone had come looking for them, as it were. I was happy to have shot such cheerful students.

Good day to all of you!

Places in Pakistan: Calf among its fodder, Phander

2011-11-11T22:40:00.001+05:00

Calf among its fodder, Phander
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 22nd Sep, 2011.

As I was looking for a new frame, I found this calf munching away among the grass of its own colour. First, I had not noticed this calf but then I realized it was there. But it soon panicked when I showed a bit more interest in it. Eyes wide open as my lens cover was removed, I took this frame. I thank God it came as I had wanted it to be, despite the intense sunlight pouring down on me. Adeel, meanwhile, was urging me to move on so that we may catch our PTDC from the rest house.

Places in Pakistan: Phander pedestrian bridge

2011-11-11T22:31:00.001+05:00

Phander pedestrian bridge, Ghizar dist.
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Walking ahead, after shooting madrassah girls in their madrassah, I found this exceedingly beautifully placed suspended, wooden bridge over Shandur river. I immediately took the photograph. I must remind my readers that it is a relatively new bridge and not an old one. The clouds give an additional colour to the frame.

Places in Pakistan: Madrassah girls, Phander, Ghizar dist.

2011-11-10T22:50:00.001+05:00

Madrassah girls, Phander, Ghizar dist.
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 22nd Sep, 2011.

This was a glorious day in terms of photography. There was ample sunlight and the morning was a bit colder than usual. The main theme of the day, after wolfing down brilliantly cooked trout fish, was to get the wagon for outward journey to Mastuj. The PTDC bus, by which we had arrived here yesterday, would be rumbling down here at 1 or 2 PM. It was early morning and we had lot of hours to pass. Zahid bhai, a blood pressure patient, was already not happy. He wanted to shoot more and more places. He thought he was stuck. I and Adeel wanted to enjoy the place a bit more. And I had an argument: The private wan would cost a small fortune: They were demanding anything between Rs.12,000 to 20,000. The ticket would cost a fraction of it. I was against spending a fortune on a place I did not know: Mastuj. In any case we would reach the place. So I asked Adeel to accompany me down to the market, which I think was around 5 Km from our rest house. It was downwards as our rest house was perched on the highest point of the place.

We started to walk, shooting and looking around the villages. It was a type of place I wanted to bring my wife to. She would have felt at home, among the brilliantly dressed women, kids playing around or going to school - it was school time. Most of the children looked very happy going to school. Many children in Karachi, on the other hand, look very sleepy and perturbed by their daily routine of going to school early morning. These children walked gingerly. I would shoot them on my return trip to rest house in the afternoon. But first I shot a frame of these two beautiful, shy madrassah children in their madrassah. The setting was beautiful: The mountains in the background, the wooden columns of the building, the scarf coloured girls. And unlike what most Western writers would have you believe, these were the very epitome of happiness. They were also properly educated and I did not found them lacking in knowledge as compared to their school-going counterparts.

Places in Pakistan: Phander lake

2011-11-09T12:24:00.001+05:00

PTDC Motel & Phander lake, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 21st Sep, 2011.

Location: 36°10'13"N 72°55'4"E

Finally, we were at Phander lake. The PTDC bus had dropped us next to a government rest house with all our camping gear strewn on the road. So we had to hurriedly remove all that stuff from the road otherwise there would have been a traffic jam and lot of honking. After removing all the luggage we were thinking about the room. We desperately wanted the room to throw all this stuff in it. Rest House seemed a good place to start. I nudged Adeel, who is in PSO, to talk his way into the rest house. I must tell you a thing or two about the rest houses maintained by Government of Pakistan. Firstly, they are all run on very professional basis, from the taxes that we pay. This is done to please the ministers and their bloated, egoistic families. Ministers in Pakistan almost always never pay their taxes. No wonder they are held with such contempt across the country. But Adeel did not show any contempt. He just asked the keeper to allow us for a single night in any room which might be available. He solemnly informed all of us that all rooms were empty but he is not allowed to give any non-official any room. Then Zahid bhai stepped forward, his think palm into the palm of the keeper and informed the poor man that he is a journalist from GEO TV, which off course was a blatant lie. But Zahid bhai specializes in lying to government chowkidars and keepers. He has done it before and he was doing it again, under intense cold and mounting clouds overhead. After 30 minutes of negotiations, casual promise of a bribe, and promises that we would only stay one night, we were allowed into a room with no beds and no running water and no heater. Well, we still agreed to pay Rs.250 for a night in. The private hotel, belonging to a Ismaili, opposite this rest house would have cost us Rs.1000 for a night.

We soon dragged our luggage, walking sticks and some fruits into the room, took our cameras out and scrambled for outdoors. This was the first, open view of the lake from our side. You can note PTDC motels, run by Government, across the lake. This place was very beautiful and the only disappointment was the lake, for which we had come so long a distance. I was truly disappointed by its appearance. It was the second time I had been so disappointed by a Pakistani lake, the first being Keenjhar lake in Sindh province.

Places in Pakistan: Gupis valley, Ghizar dist.

2011-11-09T12:08:00.001+05:00

Gupis, Ghizar district, Pakistan
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 21st Sep, 2011
Time: 12:19 PM

After bathing, eating, shaving, buying a pair of shoes, and more tea, hugging, good-byes, and scrambling for the best seat on PTDC run bus to Phander, we were on our way to further glory and exploration. Danial looked bored because he had been to all these places. But he still took some shots. Zahid bhai looked more eager to capture as many as possible. He is, after all, a publisher and he can earn lot of money using these shots in his own printed diaries and calenders. Both Adeels were also quite eager. And I was too happy to shoot from the window, although it wasn't the best of the buses and the route is winding, beautiful and classy. The added charm of this place, atleast for the males of our country and abroad, is that most people don't have purdah here. As you move forward purdah comes into play. Ismailis, a deviant sect of Shia Islam, have no purdah for women. Therefore, fair number of fair women may be seeing strolling around villages, working, tending to kids, milking cows, etc. Zahid bhai was too eager to shoot them; I was not.

Gupis is enroute to Phander lake when you travel from Gakuch. It is a lovely little valley with Sunnis and Ismailis living in harmony. And to be sure, it is a perfect tourist spot with all the usual trappings of the modern world: Electricity, water, hotels, chai khannas, green fields, security and lots of fish in the river. I loved it and anyone passing by will love it too.

Places in Pakistan: Clean shave, Gakuch

2011-11-08T21:40:00.001+05:00

Having a clean shave, Ghakuch
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza

Date: 21st Sep, 2011

Location: 36°10′N, 73°45′E.

My friend, Adeel Ather, got down to get his face cleared of the facial hair, which had propped all around during our trek. He didn't have to wait that long. The shops at Gakuch open early, at around 8 AM. So before breakfast he found this man and for Rs.30, I think, he got the shave. And I got my shot.

You must note, as a traveller, that most barbers come from either Punjab or the areas nearby the province. Hence, most of the barbers in Pakistan - and those who work in Middle East - are either Punjabis or Hazaras. This one was Hazara and he could speak in Pashtu and Punjabi.

I should add to your knowledge this interesting bit: Due to extremely tense situation in province of Balochistan many of the barbers have fled. They were Punjabis, off course. And now Baloch and Pathans lament that there's no one to properly trim their hairs!