Sunday, February 23, 2014

Mehndi in Karachi


Mehndi in Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
Via Flickr:
I requested Indian groom to hold currency of his own country Indian. Whereas I requested Pakistani bride to hold her country's currency. Two rival countries brought to affection by marriage.

Two Gujratis on two notes (Ghandhi -jee and Jinnah bai) - founders of two nations (India and Pakistan) now in hands of two Memons - Kashif Mukadam from Mumbai & Schahana Ekbal from Karachi. Shadi mubarak ho !

[Shot with Nikon D7000 on 21st Feb 2014].

Monday, February 10, 2014

Subzi Mandi | Vegetable & Fruit market, Karachi

This is my favourite shot from yesterday's shoot with Raja Islam, a longtime flickr friend from Karachi. It is shot against the sharp sun of Karachi amidst early morning hustle-bustle of traders and load carriers.

For this shot, I simply turned dial and shot using silhouette feature.

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Portrait: Boy, Rehri goth

We went today for a rafting trip. Khurram, Adeel and Zahid bhai were there as were other people not known to me (organized by Usman bhai). It was a pleasure trip with some good photo ops. This photograph is one of the best.

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

Chicken loaf by Ami (mom)

This is probably the simplest dinner cooked by my good mother. It has chicken, some vegetables and covered with tomato ketchup. And it requires specially cut, large loafs of white bread. That's it. And lots of boiled eggs too.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Published: Baltistan pride: Bare necessities


Basho landscape
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
My feature on Basho was published today in Express Tribune Sunday magazine pages 44, 45,46.

Here is the text:

Basho forests are the pride of Baltistan, but my recent visit to the area stripped this myth and laid it bare. Just like the forests. What baffled me more was the apathy from those who thrive on these forests than the absence of the lush green landscape promised to me by my Balti friend, Tipu.
Almost as a forewarning, even the route to Basho is as dangerous as the looming threat to the ecosystem in the area. Nearly 40kms before approaching Skardu city, a sharp turn descends into a precarious-looking bridge that is suspended over the furiously flowing River Indus. If one is not skilled or courageous enough to maneuver the jeep over these wooden planks, I’d suggest they walk across it. The waterfall that welcomes you after this treacherous drive however is quite uplifting and following it is the final ascent up to the receding forests of Basho.

The landscape here is inundated with settlements. The rows and rows of houses in the village, commonly known as Khar Basho village, explain the cause for deforestation. The winding ride through the village ends at the mouth of the Basho forest valley and what it now holds comes as a major disappointment.

Only traces remain of this once thriving forest. I feel an overwhelming urge to leave but the weight of exhaustion and the expense of travelling holds us back. After spending Rs4,000 on a jeep ride, the decision to spend two nights at a community rest house seemed like the most practical thing to do. Our guide, Sher Muhammad, informed us that the income of this rest house is purportedly distributed equally among the villagers of Basho. But a little bit of inquiry reveals that the major chunk of the income was pocketed by a contractor, Yonus, leaving only a meager sum for each household that is distributed annually, by the end of the tourist season.

The services at the rest house were below par and the tea served here was perhaps the worst I’ve ever had. Day one was hence spent agonising over how to best spend the second day in the absence of the area’s biggest pull factor — the forest.

Next morning, however, things seemed a bit brighter. The sun shone over the mountain top, making it a perfect day for photography. I left the rest house with my equipment to head down to the river. In the absence of the forest, the mountains on all four sides satiated my appetite for photography. Although they are not as high or as impressive as the K2, they manage to strike a chord with everyone who visits the place. Basho suddenly got a lot more interesting as I grudgingly admitted to myself that beauty can take any shape.

It was also the first day out on the hills for the nomads. Women and children were dressed for this special occasion to see off their husbands and fathers as they wander through the mountains for months. Only a few stay back to tend to their families in case of an emergency as the nearest hospital is all the way in Skardu. According to a villager however, the village is very safe and the last time someone was shot here was nearly 10 years ago.

Everyday life in the village is uneventful explains our guide, Muhammad. Most of the village elders have been to Karachi. “Karachi is our mother,” they claim. But perturbed by the recent developments in the city they claim that Karachi is sadly no longer safe for them. “The best chefs in Karachi come from Basho village,” claims a villager proudly, adding that the chief chef at Spicy Roll is from Basho. Many villagers travel to the city to look for opportunities to earn and the new houses that continue to spring up across the village are directly linked to their stable earnings in the city.

As my visit here comes to an end, I prepare for my journey back home; carrying luggage to the jeep under a merciless sun, without any forest trees in the vicinity that could provide shade. Before we checked out however, I had a chance to speak to the chief forest officer and range officer who had just made their way up to the rest house for a routine meeting with the villagers to discuss local problems.

In the meeting, a local is granted a permit to use the forest wood to build a house. According to the Pakistan Forest Act of 1927, the forests in Balistan, including those in Basho have been absorbed as part of the government’s property with only ‘use’ rights extended to villagers. They must seek permission from the government for the use of forest products. Wanting to learn more about the destruction of forest land, I decided to confront the man. “Who cut all these trees?” I cut to the chase. The officer swiftly dismisses my query with, “which organisation do you belong to?” He then proceeds to give an unconvincing explanation, blaming the state of the forest on alpine conditions. But this does not explain the overnight appearance of tree stumps. My protest falls on deaf ears as the officer requests me to set up a meeting with him in Skardu regarding any further queries. His reluctance to address the issue was answer enough.

During the winter season, when temperatures in Basho drop to a reported -25 degrees centigrade and there are no forest officers to keep an eye, many villagers commit wood theft to light fires to keep warm. Although a ban was imposed on all commercial exploitation of forests throughout the Northern Areas in 1986, many instances of theft continue to be reported. During 1997, more than 90 loads (one load equaling 1,200kg) of wood were transported to Skardu without official permit, according to a case study by Jawad Ali from the Aga Khan Rural Support Programme, Baltistan. And according to our jeep’s driver (a former driver for the lumber mafia), every single villager in Basho has a part to play in this callous plunder.

Link: http://tribune.com.pk/story/637736/baltistan-pride-bare-necessities/

Muhammad Immad Hamza is now 2 years old


Colour lessons
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
MASHALLAH - May ALLAH bless us all. My son, Muhammad Immad Hamza, is now 2-years old. May ALLAH bless his life - Ameen.

Saturday, May 11, 2013

Three women voters, NA-252 seat, Karachi

This is the first time women of my home - sister, wife and mother - went to vote in General elections. These are supposedly remarkable elections in a sense that huge number of people have come for voting - and if you are not voting, there is a sort of pressure to vote!

Good lord !

Friday, March 29, 2013

Kalankot masjid ruins, Sindh

I stumbled upon this decaying site on 23rd March, 2013, a national holiday. The day was beautiful with splashes of clouds here and there. They made this photograph - and this visit - even more beautiful than expected.

I was, however, once again saddened to see the decay of this once-beautiful and imposing masjid in the corner of a Kalankot fort, 5 Kms from Makli graveyard on Sujawal bypass. No one is caring for it and there are reports of some stealing of the sites' area by land grabbers. Govt. is not behind any grabber. They are building a new jail here. How sad and sick is that!

Saturday, February 9, 2013

Historical graves, Shahpur Chakar

Via Flickr:
First, humans destroyed this site by looting it. Then, River Indus came marching in. The floods of 2010 displaced millions of Pakistanis and destroyed some of the most beautiful, historical sites of Pakistan. This was one of them. There was no one to document it. The misery of people far outwighted concern for historical tombs and masjids. Many of the graves lost their stones and their souls. It must have been a sad day.

One local Sindhi recalled with disgust the attitude of PPP-led government towards people displaced due to mega floods. No one was given any shelter and people were forced to help themselves. Still, they - or anyone else - cannot be allowed to steal stones. I also suspect NGOs and foreigners. They have always been culprits in Pakistan.

[ Photograph shot on Feb 5, 2013 with Nikon D7000 ]

Saturday, January 12, 2013

Mula Ali ka kua, Sehwan Shairf, Sindh

Via Flickr:
The common belief among the Shias of Sehwan Sharif is that this is the place where Hazrat Ali (RA) came and drank water from. It is therefore named as Mula Ali ka kua. People collect this water and take it as 'tabarruk' and use it for drinking, bathing, etc.

Thursday, December 27, 2012

People of River Indus, Sann, Pakistan

On the edge of River Indus at Sann I found this young boy pushing his boat and himself to the safety of ground. For years I had wanted this type of frame: Single boy, preferably without shirt to show poverty as well as freedom; a single boat in the frame and low light conditions. It was a moment I wanted and I got.

[Shot on 23rd Dec. 2012 with Nikon D7000.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Dhaba, Sann bus stop, Highway

Via Flickr:
Making chai (tea) for customers at his highway dhaba, Sann.

Chai: Rs.20 / cup

Sunday, December 16, 2012

Dangerous work, Karachi


Dangerous work, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
Via Flickr:
A "pranch" fixer balances himself on a construction site at 12th floor without any safety concerns whatsover. The construction industry in Pakistan is lax when it comes to providing proper facilities to labours, causing many deaths annually. As these sites are never checked by authorities concerned, builders and contractors keep no measures in place.

Bilal colony, Korangi


Bilal colony, Korangi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
Via Flickr:
I visited Bilal Colony today (16th Dec 2012) to see for myself the living conditions there. As expected, much of the area cannot be photographed because Pashtuns traditionally shy away from photographers for fear that their women may be photographed.

Another reason is the illegal drugs and liqor business which is rampant in these areas. Off course everything happens under the watchful eyes of Police. However, recently an operation was conducted by Police and agencies and many drug peddlers and target killers were caught red handed.

Friday, November 23, 2012

PUBLISHED: Interview in Newsline Nov. 2012

PUBLISHED by one of the leading political / social monthly magazine in the country. This is a special issue dedicated to "Politics of Religion". Read it here:

Ameer Hamza has traveled all over Pakistan, capturing different sides of the country with his camera. Newsline spoke to the talented photographer to find out how he got started and we have culled some images from his portfolio that reflect the rich and varied expressions of faith in Pakistan.

How did you become interested in photography?

I was born in Karachi, but my family used to travel a lot. As a child my father would take us to various exotic locations across Pakistan, places where there were no roads and no people around.

Initially, it was difficult for me to get a hold of my father’s camera. He was very anxious about it being manhandled and I think I always did. I was never really interested in family portraits. Instead, I wanted to photograph street children or landscapes. Those were the days of Kodak 100 and 200, those yellow-coated films, and my father had to keep buying me new Kodak rolls. In 2004, he got me my first camera. That was Olympus C-120, a 2-MP camera, and I got hooked instantly. There was no concern whatsoever about the cost of film and I was free to shoot 1,000 photographs in a day. By then I had learned that a typical National Geographic photographer shoots around 40,000 photographs for a single six-month assignment.

There’s some sort of urgency within me which compels me to move around, to observe, to shoot. Photography is not my main profession, although many people think it is. I want to show Pakistan as it is. I want to show its culture and its people and what kind of religious inclinations they have. I feel sick whenever I hear of someone blowing up a Sufi shrine or attacking a church or a Hindu temple. The older the place of worship, the more disgusted I get. I love historical buildings and their connections with our present.

You are a photographer for Getty Images. How did that come about?

I have been on Flickr since 2006, but before that I worked on an assignment for CNN’s travel magazine team in which I was assigned to photograph the magnificent structures at the Chaukandi tombs near Karachi. That was my first major interaction with an international organisation.

In 2011, I got a message in my mail that Getty wanted to buy some of my work and I agreed to their terms. Then, in mid-2011, I once again got a message from them. They were looking for someone who knew Pakistan inside out, in terms of travel destinations, food, etc., and they wanted to hire a freelancer. Many other Pakistani photographers also applied, but in the end I was selected.

Also, earlier three of my photographs were published by National Geographic on their website and I have won three Guardian photography awards.

How often do you travel around Pakistan?

The short answer is whenever I have the budget to do so. It’s been a long time since I travelled around Pakistan with my family. Since getting my first camera from my abbu in 2004, I have been travelling with friends. Last year I went trekking on the Pakistan-Afghanistan border (Wakhan region). In 2010, I was assigned to shoot the western parts of Balochistan by a private company. Before I went on that assignment, I told my employer that insurgents were capturing and beheading people in the province. So they provided me with a Dell laptop, a Toyota Vigo double cabin car, a Land Cruiser and eight guards. They also gave me a huge budget and I had 21 days to shoot. Frankly, I never felt any insurgent would behead me and I really enjoyed that assignment.

Before that, in 2008, just before getting engaged, I took my friends and drove right to the border of India in the Thar desert, beyond the Nagar temple. No cameras were allowed there so I have no photographic record of that place. I have visited all of Pakistan’s borders: India (2008), Afghanistan (2002 & 2010), Iran (2010) and China (2003).

Ameer Hamza's Photo gallery

Saturday, October 27, 2012

Eid Mehndi, Karachi


Eid Mehndi, Karachi
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
Eid Mubarak to all Muslims.

Mehndi patterns displayed by a Pakistani girl in Karachi, Pakistan.

Thursday, October 11, 2012

Tomb of Phyllis Louise Lawrence, Gora Qabristan, Karachi

The white-domed tomb of Phyllis Louise Lawrence, nee Napier, the first wife of Sir Henry Staveley Lawrence (Collector of Karachi). The Lawrence couple were married in 1899 and had three children before Phyllis was killed in a carriage accident in Karachi on 30 June 1912. Karachi, Sind, British India.

I was able to shoot this photograph early morning of 24th Dec, 2006, when I visited the place with my mother. It saddens me that the place around the tomb is now all vandalized and captured by land mafia. I was told by a Christian at the cemetery that this area was taken up by Muslim refugees from India after partition. Somehow this tomb survived.

There's an interesting story about this woman in the book written on Karachi (a compilation) by Asif Farukki.

Sunday, September 23, 2012

Anyone loves USA?


Anyone loves USA?
Originally uploaded by Ameer Hamza
Via Flickr:
Anti-US and Anti-Israel protests across much of Muslim world including Pakistan prompted me to get my collection of stamps out and hunt for USA stamps. Here are some of them. After so many years, they still look colourful and bring out memories etched somewhere back on my mind.

I love these stamps but do I love USA?

Shot with Tamron 90mm 2.8 lens.

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Portrait: Waterproofing labour, Karachi

This is Arshad Khan, my waterproofing labour and Afridi pathan. Afridi pathans are numerous in Pakistan and are considered most handsome among all Pashtuns. They are proud and strong and hard working. I suspect that many of them now living in Karachi have become quite lazy - but not Arshad.

For Roof, Basement and Bathroom waterproofing in Pakistan please contact Ameer Hamza at 0301-2228210 or email at ameer.great@gmail.com. You may also find details and prestigious projects completed in Pakistan here.